Harriette Kamburis, left, has helped George Rogers become acquainted with the Greek Orthodox religion during his 11 years as the church's custodian and chief chicken cooker at the Labor Day barbecue. (Alvin Benn)
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By Alvin Benn • September 5, 2008
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Chicken George" was one of the most pop ular fictional characters on a trail-blazing television miniseries that captivated the country 30 years ago.
It was called "Roots," and actor Ben Vereen became nationally known for his portrayal of a man whose "fowl" abilities earned him his nickname.
Montgomery's George Rogers is like "Chicken George," too, but he prefers his fowl in a barbecue pit and then in a foam container.
Rogers also can cook up a storm with beef, pork and lamb, but his specialty is chickens -- carefully spiced, cooked and turned over twice before being sold to hungry customers at the annual Greek Orthodox barbecue every Labor Day.
A fixture at the fundraising event for the past 11 years, the 60-year-old church custodian puts on his game face 24 hours before the first chickens are placed on the huge grill.
He arrived at the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation about 5:30 a.m. Sunday, took a brief nap and then got to work.
"I didn't get much sleep after that," he said Monday morning outside the pit, where constant heat and smoke combined to test the resolve of everybody but George. "But, I love to cook and I love working here."
He said he's been at it longer than he can remember and was somewhat miffed when he watched "Roots" on TV and saw Vereen's "Chicken George" character.
"I was gonna sue 'em," said George, with a big laugh. "I'm 'Chicken George.' That's what everybody calls me."
He said he got his nickname long before "Roots" and Vereen came along, picking it up from friends who enjoyed watching him cook chickens down in Conecuh County.
George doesn't recall just how old he was or when he got his nickname, but he's proud of it, especially on Labor Day, when it's his time to shine.
He was raised a Baptist but spends much of his time around Greeks. He even lives at a house just behind the church and takes care of the property.
"I don't cut the grass, but I do everything else, including planting flowers," he said. "I can do it all."
The more he works at the church, the more he admires a religion that he knew little about when he first arrived there.
"I'd rather go to church here, and I do a lot," he said. "They treat me good. I don't know much about the language, but I do know a few words."
He's also learned about St. George's Day, a major holiday in some Christian denominations. When he mentions the name of the patron saint, he breaks into a big smile.
"They call me Jorgo around here," he said. "That means George in Greek."
Rogers said he dropped out of high school in Evergreen in the 10th grade, but never looked back. He got his education in the "real world" of daily survival.
"I worked construction for a while," he said. "I could do it all there, too. I operated heavy equipment with the best of 'em, but I always came back to chickens."
Col. Sanders is said to have kept all of his "secret spices" in his head or a in a safe out of reach of prying eyes. George is the same way, but he's a one-man band and doesn't have a big corporation behind him.
"I got my own special recipe, but I'm not tellin' anybody," he said. "You can say it's all in the spices, though. I don't do sauce. That's not my thing."
At 5-feet-7 and only 140 pounds, George virtually disappears from view in all that barbecue smoke that surrounds him, but he's not worried. He's been doing it for more than a decade and plans to keep at it as long as his lungs hold out.
"I don't buy the chickens, I just cook 'em," he said. "What I do is prepare it overnight. Then, I put the big side down and turn it all over two times. Then, it's ready to eat."
He said he's divorced and a grandfather. Other than that, he prefers talking about chickens because that's his thing.
"You bring me a chicken and I'll do it up right," he said. "Chickens, that's my thing. That's why they call me Chicken George."
Alvin Benn writes about people and places in central and south Alabama. If you have suggestions for a story, contact him at 875-3249 or e-mail him at benn8071@bellsouth.net.
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